Its one of the exquisite luxury pieces and 2020's one of the top Breguet listed watch, Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395

The Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395


The extreme complexity of this production can be seen as only 35 tour billion watches was sold by Abraham-Louis Breguet in his life time. The master watchmaker taking great pains during the time watches were worn vertically, devised a way of negating the effects of gravity on the functioning of the oscillator and chromatic accuracy.
The name tour billion came to reference by the forgotten notion of planetary  system rotating around a singe axis.

An ultra-thin/extra flat tourbillon is, even with modern manufacturing methods, a fairly difficult thing to execute, and this is owing to the inherent properties of a tourbillon watch. The tourbillon cage, as well as the need to advance the carriage, plus the mass of the balance, lever, and escape wheel, every time the escape wheel unlocks, adds considerably to the energy losses and so for a tourbillon watch to work it will, all things being equal, require a larger mainspring than a conventional watch.

The tourbillon cage also takes up extra room, as it must by necessity be of a larger diameter than the balance, and for these reasons, tourbillons have historically been the opposite of thin, and the few experimental tourbillon wristwatches that were made, certainly did not tempt fate by trying to add an automatic winding train as well.

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Open working an automatic tourbillon wristwatch is therefore a tour-de-force of a tour-de-force – and moreover, judged on the criteria classically applied to skeletonized movements, this watch is very impressive as well. Today, there are many movements which are called “skeletonized” which strictly speaking, have not been skeletonized, as they were designed as open movements from their inception. The exciting thing about skeletonized movements prior to this development was always seeing just how far you could go in removing metal without fatally compromising the rigidity, and therefore functionality, of the movement – watches designed for durability and accuracy generally have movements that are thicker than not, for this reason.

Transparency, therefore, was the most essential characteristic of a skeletonized movement, and the more the better – on this score, the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395 succeeds admirably.
This is a very particular kind of watchmaking, requiring expertise in a number of aspects of watchmaking few brands possess comprehensively. It’s true that given the large, corporate luxury group ownership structure pervasive in much modern watchmaking, that brand-specific expertise can become diluted and crop up in unexpected and sometimes inappropriate places, but ultra-thin, automatic, skeletonized tourbillons remain a relative rarity for a reason, and this is one of the most beautiful examples we’ve seen in some time.

What’s unique about this is the movement, decoration and finishing – hand crafted engine turning or guilloche design of the remains plate surface. Clous de paris hobnailing is created using a diamond tipped guilloche tool a method that gives it a distinct splendour but allows for no imperfections. This is a first Breguet.

BREGUET

REFERENCES
https://www.breguet.com/en/timepieces/classique-complications/5395#

BREGUET

Specifications
Movement

  • Winding Self-winding
  • Power reserve (hours) 80
  • Calibre 581SQ
  • Lines 16
  • Jewels 33
  • Frequency 4
  • Balance-wheel Breguet
  • Escapement inv. right-angle lever, Si horns
  • Balance-spring flat, silicon
  • Oscillating weight Platinum
  • Number of components 325

Case

  • Metal Rose gold
  • Skeleton Yes
  • Sapphire caseback Yes
  • Case shape Round
  • Case width (mm) 41.00
  • Case thickness (mm) 7.70
  • Water-resistant (m) 30

* Recommended retail price (incl. VAT)
INR 15 998 000.00 *