Trends are always coming in and going out of fashion. Shoes styles are constantly evolving and modifying from the more functional boots to the cozy sandal to gravity defying stiletto. The only crucial shoe trend that goes unnoticed, are ‘Heels’ and their fluctuating height and how it co relates to economy.
Noticed the recent increase in the taller shoe? Whether that’s chunky sneakers, platform boots, or giant block heels.

But have you noticed this often happens right after the economic down turn. We’ve seen it time and time again; after the Great Depression and now after the arrival of Covid-19 pandemic. I know it sounds a bit far fudged at first but that’s what this article is going to be all about. Ding! Ding!

No denying you could give tribute to the recent return of taller shoes to typical trend cycle, after all the majority of our clothing is generally inspired by the fashions of 1970’s. It’ll be illogical to assume we’d wear similar shoes to that time period. But over a century of proof of this phenomenon I’m inclined to think there’s more than that.
While the world coincided with the financial crisis in numerous points in human history, Marie Antoinette was renowned to continue to be wearing the latest fashion inspite of her country’s duelling economy, social unrest. For the sake of this blog I’ll be looking at the current as it pertains to 20th and 21st centuries.

And as a note I’m not the first person to notice this trend nor I’m the originator of this theory, numerous people have speculated on this and voiced their own opinion on the matter. This is just my take on it.

Going back a hundred years, at the start of the roaring 1920’s we’ve seen a major increase indulgence as a response of the frugality upon the nations during World War I. Women’s fashion was less rigid and constricting and as women’s hemlines began to rise, 1920’s became one of the earliest period where it was acceptable for her shoes to show. As a result of this new found accessory a wide range of shoe styles began developing and with them varying heights. During the 1920’s the most popular shoe was the strap pump in which there where many variations and shoes were not only fashionable but comfortable with the average pump being about 2 inches tall. Casual shoes for daily wear from Mary Jane’s sandal to lace-up oxfords ranged between half inch to an inch tall during this decade and as a result women were now able to take on more active pastime like dancing and sports.

The previously mentioned shoe styles continued in popularity for a decade, by the 1930’s flats went fully out of style, all shoes even sport shoes began featuring a heel. When the Great Depression began in October 1929, it affected the economies world wide and clothing in the early 1900’s understandably became less lavish than the previous decade as a result of money and resources becoming scarce. Inspite of this women’s shoe continued to evolve with the designs becoming equal parts practical and ornamental often featuring a tall heel; that would be upto 3 inches.

It is also to be noticed when the platform shoe we currently known in the west was invented. With Salvatore Ferragamo releasing the gorgeous rainbow sandal in 1938.

Many attribute the decorative shoes and high heels to women wanting to distract themselves from the grim situation at hand by appearing luxurious and glamorous in the small ways they were able. You’ll see the concept escapism through fashion appear again.
During 1930’s going to the cinemas were a popular inexpensive pastime, and women of the silver screen became the biggest influence when it comes to fashion and style in 1930’s.

Magazines began to devoting pages and pages to movie stars where they explain their image and in extreme details recommending their female readers to go to the movies and study their favourite actresses in order to better ambulate them. With this becoming one of their major selling point film studios began controlling and cultivating their stars appearance with a goal to creating enviably glamorous image that inspired imitation. Hollywood stars like Jean Harlow, Ginger Rogers and John Crawford became the style icons by the mid 30’s women’s fashion made a huge push towards romance and femininity. With figure hugging silhouettes become all the rage and higher heels making an appearance even for day wear.

For the next few decades we continued to see heel heights rise and fall often due to the natural fashion trend cycle but its only till 1970 until we see the one of the biggest and tallest shoe evolution.  During early to mid 1960’s women shoe were on the lower size, where flats being the go to for many women but after the platform shoe was unleashed in Teen Magazine during late 60’s it took over the fashion world and by 1970’s by far the most popular shoe style. During this time the youth of the time was shrugging off traditional and conservative trends in favour of most experimental styles. In attempt to distance themselves from the prior generation. This rejection of the past also reflected in society. A huge rise in revolutionary movement like environmentalism, feminism, civil rights, anti war and youth suffrage. The 1970’s were the incredibly tumultuous time where counter culture was on the rise and hand forget about the 2 major oil crisis that cause the global economic recession, as well as the end of the Vietnam war. As if the inspite of the seriousness of the event happening during the decade. The 1970’s went all out when it came to fashion, resulting in one of the most style creating period of the 20th century.

Just like they did during the Great Depression these hardships had the opposite effect on shoes and we climb to higher heights than ever before with platform clogs, heeled boots and sandals being worn by both men and women. This acceptance by both gender was seen as representative of the sexual libration of the decade and the freedom the era evoked.

In 1980’s and 90’s heel heights slip back down as women were now joining the previously male dominating workforce on mass. Where casual fashion becoming the norm, heels were on the more sensible side, especially when comparing to the tiering platforms of 1970’s.

In 90’s you were either more into street wear or the minimalist grunge look, majority people wore comfortable shoes like sneakers, combat boots and loafers. It wasn’t’t until the later half of the decade that we began to see platforms make a return.

First on the runway with the designers like Vivienne Westwood releasing absurdly high heels and then in music, variety of artists like the British girl group; the Spice Girls being a tribute to the renewed interest in the platform style. This period also followed the Dotcom bubble, which was the crash in the evaluation of the 90’s internet company after they were discovered to be not enough profitable as initially expected. Which let to massive lay offs in the tech space that kick started the recession of the late 2000’s.

As I previously said inspite of the adversity women’s fashion continued to flourish. With platforms being popular in younger demographics and designer stilettos becoming highly coveted items for older women, something which reflected in Sex In The City and their obsession with Manolo’s. While the mid 2000’s were all about extravagances, influx of designer bags or monogram print becoming the rage. But after the recession late 2000’s spending money in this manner was seen as tacky. However that didn’t stop the tall heel trend.

In a study conducted by IBM between 2008 and 2011, they reported that the discussions of the heel height on social media showed that in 2008-2009 the tale end of the recession fashion trend forecast consistently wrote about the heels from 5-8 inches.

Usually in an economic downturn, heels go up and stay up – as a consumers turn to more flamboyant fashions as a mean of fantasy and escape.

Dr. Trevor Davis, Consumer Product expert, IBM Global business services

We have entered a moment of heightened impracticality in footwear. It could be sort of a greater need for escapism.

Author of ‘Heights of Fashion: A history of elevated shoe’ – Elizabeth Semmelhack in interview with CNN

We can see this impracticality and escapism in popular post recession heels, the heeled-up platform boot by Jeffery Campbell, heel issues by Alexander McQueen, belted sneakers by Isabel Marant. These tiring heels were massively popular with numerous celebrity in the late 2000’s and early 2010’s. As a result of social media these outlined trends might have otherwise have gone unnoticed were now accessible to anyone with a internet connection. With the fast fashion on the rise as a result of frugality following the recession, affordable dups for these tiering heels could be found just about anywhere. And soon enough they were considered closet staples for many women in fashion.

Jeffrey Campbell
Alexander Mcqueen
Isabel Marant

With mid 90’s fashion trend taking over the late 2010’s we reverted back to more functional styles chunky sneakers and some sensible boots becoming the prevalent shoe trend for the rest of the decade. Recently the return of higher heels have coincided with the pandemic, it has not only affected the world on the economic level but on the social one as well. In the past year hundreds and thousands have become unemployed and the economy world wide is all in a mess.

As you’ve read above and as evidence in the last 100 years this economical downturn has guaranteed the taller shoes be making a comeback. On the runway we’ve seen the luxury brand Versace, Moschino, Miu Miu and Prada release tiering heels. Indie brands like Naked Wolfe, Nodaleto have been getting more and more popular. People have been cooped up at home so long and comfort has take precedence over style, no doubt there’ll be a increased desire for extravagant dressing once things eventually go back to normal. We are going to want to relish the fact that we’ll be actually be able to go outside and showoff all the wearings. And speaking for myself I’m at the point where I want to just dress for the 9’s and get a cup of coffee.

What are your thoughts on this fashion phenomenon, do you think it’s just a coincidence or is there something to be said about using fashion as escapism?

Source: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V2fWKe_Mfp0